Phoebe Philo’s “Collection D” Is Proof That Fashion Still Delights in the Details

Phoebe Philo is a master of her craft, and the preview for her upcoming “Collection D,” the fourth in her collection series, demonstrates many of the finest aspects of her abilities. At Celine (or Céline, while still under her tenure), she approached fashion as a subtly intellectual mode of expression. It’s no wonder, despite how many others try to recapture her elusive nonchalance, that Philo’s eponymous label possesses the ability to still reign supreme.

As with the edits and collections that came before it, Phoebe Philo has revived numerous treasured silhouettes from her time at the French house. The brand’s current Gig Bag proves an updated version of the Trio—and we’re all better for it, especially with “Collection D’s” suede earth-toned continuations. The silhouette of an enveloping Moon bomber or Kinked Tailored Dress feels satisfyingly familiar, yet with her signature flair, they are also indulgently new.

Philo’s woman is at once young and old—a design skill one can only acquire from a comprehensive understanding of the spectrum of feminine style, no matter the actual age of the person she’s dressing. But however serious her customer (and price point) may be, it’s the details that cause hidden delight to bubble to the surface. Take the Cape Bomber, crafted in an exquisitely seasonless shade of brown, which creates an effortlessly hybrid silhouette, and perhaps pair it with a coronet made from goose feathers. It might still be high summer, but Philo has already set the standard for translating operatic dramas into our winter wardrobes without feeling overtly costume-y.

Delicious details follow through the rest of the collection, too. Incredibly simple oversized T-shirts are paired with outlandish bottoms like the Wisp Feather Trousers. The Sugar Tops—apron-like shirts with bubbled hems—warn that Philo might actually successfully bring the peplum back, but more than anything else, they give a buoyancy and balance to her other signature loose-fit and streamlined shapes.

The leather straps on the Buckle Sandals are excessively long, as if accidentally untrimmed, and yet there’s a definite feeling of fun in letting them feel a little bit askew. Elsewhere, the Low Buckle Sandals pile on top of themselves. Footwear continues to be one of the brand’s strongest categories (alongside its perfectly paparazzi-blocking sunglasses), and it’s no surprise that the rest of the industry’s freaky footwear experiments are finally catching up.

As a brand, Phoebe Philo’s seasonless design presence remains obstinately in its own lane, a stance that, for a two-year-old company, remains impressive in a design world still so rigidly ruled by the fashion calendar. Though the pieces won’t begin to drop until early 2026, their impact is already being felt.